Knitted fabric and its production



July 6, 1943. H. B. HAYTOETAL 2,323,396

KNITTED FABRICS AND THEIR PRODUCTION Filed Aug. 8, 1939 3 Sheets-Sheet l H-B. HAYTO BMATTINSON I memes r MW Amen m July 6, 1943. H. B. HAYTO ETAL KNITTED FABRICS AND THEIR PRODUCTION 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Aug. 8, 1939 TTmson W B MA wwlw, I AWEIS July 6, '1943. H. B. HAYTO ETAL KNITTED FABRICS AND THEIR PRODUCTION Filed Aug. 8, 1939 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 .m w 0mm. m AA M a H Hw m meni l-Jul, a, 1943 UNITED STATES PATENT omca KNITTED FABRIC AND ITS PRODUCTION Harold Bestwick mm, London, and Wallace Blamire Mattinson, Spondon, near Derby,lng-

an m n s to Gorporation of Celanese America, a corporation of Delaware Application August 8,1939. Serial No. 288,998 In Great Britain August 17, 1938 9 Claims. (Cl. 66-195) This invention relates to knitted fabrics and their production and is particularly concerned of the courses of the fabric, and causing said elastic yarns to run in the fabric for substantial distances to and fro across the wales of the fabric. as well as across the courses of the fabric. Thus.

the elastic yarns or groups of yarns may becaused to run alternately along the length of the fabric wale-wise and obliquely across it, or in a zig-zag manner. After the fabric is knitted in this manner the elastic yarns therein are caused or permitted to contract so that the fabric. as formed by the relatively inelastic yarns, buckles or cockies over its surface so as to produce an elastic knitted fabric. having a pleasing buckled effect. By reason of the fact that the elastic 'yarns are caused to run for substantial distances across the width of the fabric the contraction produced and the elasticity resulting are not limited to one direction of the fabric but extend in every direction.

The securing of the elastic yarns in the fabric may be eflected by actually forming knitted loops in the elastic yarns, similar to those formed throughout the fabric in the inelastic yarns, or. alternatively or in addition. it may be eflected by lapping, that is by securing the elastic yarn betweenthe face of the fabric formed by the knitted loops of inelastic yarn, and the short floats of inelastic yarn that extend on the back of the fabric betweenthe knitted loops on the face. In order to secure the elastic yarn by lapping in this manner, it is necessary that the elastic yarn and the float securing it should proceed, in the fabric, in diflerent directions, e. g.. one (usually the elastic yarn) along the length of the fabric and the other obliquely across the fabric, or both obliquely but in opposite directions across the fabric.

Several forms of fabric according to the invention will now be described in greater detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. in which showing in detail the movements-of the elastic and inelastic threads during knitting, and

Figs. 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 are small'scale diagrams. corresponding respectively to Figs. 1, 3, 5, '7 and 9, showing generally the disposition of the elastic yarns in the fabric relatively to one another.

In order that the fabric should not be too heavy and that the elastic yarns employed should not interfere with one another so as to impede their own contraction, it is preferable that the elastic yarns or' groups of yarns should be few in number relative to the inelastic yarns emplayed, and, should be distributed across the fabric. Furthermore, where the elastic-yams are knitted in at least some courses in order'to anchor them in the fabric, it is preferable that the points at which they are so knitted should be relatively few inorder that different knitted loops ofthe same yarnshould not interfere with one another and prevent contraction.

The invention may be carried out on a warp knitting machine. and while this machine may be a single bar machine .in which all the yarns both elastic and inelastic partake of the same movements lengthwise of the machine during-knitting. it is preferably a machine having two or more bars, and further preferable that the elastic yarns or groups of yarns should be fed. to the machine in a bar or bars separate from the bar or bars ried out on a il-bar machine of which the two front bars (i. e..' the bars controlling the yarns that would appear on the face of the fabric) are threaded with inelastic yarn while the back bar.

a short distance parallel to the length of the fab'ric again, and then for a short distance ob- Figs. 1, 8, 5, 7 and 9 are large scale diagrams liquely across the fabric in the opposite direction. 01.- again, two of the bars of a machine may be threaded with elastic yarn while the remaining bar or bars are threaded with inelastic yarns.

This may be done for example on a four-bar ma chine in which the two remaining bars, e. g., the two front bars, knit the inelastic yarns, or it may be done on a three-bar machine in which the front bar only is threaded with inelastic yarns. In the latter case. however. it is desirable that the thread lapping movements of the single bar carrying the inelastic yarn should be substantial in extent, e. g., of the order of six or more needle spaces, in order to avoid any tendency in the finished fabric to split, a fault to which single bar warp knitted fabrics are liable when the guides have only a small range of thread lapping movements. By the use of two separate bars for the elastic yarns, difierent elastic yarns can be caused to move in different directions across or along the fabric at the same time. In this way, the elastic yarns may be caused to meet one another, and even to cross, so as to produce a pattern of closed or substantially closed figures such as hexagons, diamonds, or squares setwith their diagonals along the length and across the width of the fabric.

When it is desired that the elastic yarns should proceed as nearly horizontal as possible across the fabric, provision may be made in the machine for rendering the presser (normally employed to close the beards of the knitting needles) inoperative for one, two or more courses so that a greater length of elastic yam may be fed across the face of the fabric without the occurrence of complete knitting cycles on the inelastic yarns. A warp-knitting machine of the'cut presser type may, for example, be adapted for this purpose, such a machine being provided with a plain presser as well as a cut presser,and with means for putting the plain presser into and out of operation as desired.

The elastic yarns employed for the purpose of the present invention may be fed under tension, whereby they are brought to the desired extended condition. Alternatively and preferably, however, the elastic yarns are treated while in an extended condition so as to fix them in that condition whereby they may be fed without tension or with merely a tension of the same order as that applied to the inelastic yarns employed. Thus for example a gum or size may be applied to the yarns while they are in the extended condition so as to hold them in that condition, the gum or size being subsequently removed by. a suitable scouring or finishing operation on the knitted fabric.

The pattern effects produced by the configurations of the elastic thread in the fabric may be varied by varying the manner in which the guide bars carrying the elastic threads are moved or by varying the manner in which those guide bars are threaded with the elastic yarns. Thus, different sections across the width of the machine may be threaded in different'manners so as to produce a different puckering efiect. As an example of this one part of the fabric may be provided with twice as many, elastic yarns as another part, whereby a closer pouching effect is produced over some parts of the fabric than over others.

Apart from any pattern effect that may appear from the configuration of the elastic thread in the fabric and the puckering and pouching efiect resulting from the contraction thereof, any other convenient means available in connection with warped knitted fabrics may be resorted to for the production of pattern effects in the fabric. Thus the finished fabric or the yarns therein may be dyed and finished in any suitable manner. Where the fabrics are to be used for the making of bathing costumes, 9. water-repellent finish is especially useful. Again, where the fabric can conveniently be handled in a flat form, e. g., where elastic yarns are employed that have been fixed in an extended condition, the fabric may be printed before it is scoured to remove the gum or size. Again, pattern effects may be produced by the use of different inelastic yarns, e. g., yarns made of different materials and/or dyed with different colours and/or having difierent degrees of lustre. Thus, yarns of difl'erent characteristics may be threaded in the guide bars in any desired grouping or manner of alternation, to produce stripes or zig-zags.

Furthermore, the pattern effects of these two kinds may be employed to enhance one another, the puckering of the fabric being caused to conceal, partly conceal or modify the pattern effects produced by other means, while when the fabric is extended, for example in wear, the said pattern efiects are developed or restored to their original form.

' The fabric shown in Figs. 1 and 2 is knitted on a 3-bar machine of 24-gauge, threaded with cellulose acetate yarns of 75 denier on the two front bars, there being in each bar one thread per needle of the machine. One thread of the front bar is indicated in Fig. 1 at 22 and one thread of the centre bar at 23. The back bar is threaded with elastic yarn having a content of sizing material which holds it in an extended condition, the denier of the yarn as extended being 400 and its denier in the unstretched state being 800. The elastic yarns are disposed in groups 01' two, one such group being indicated in Fig. 1 at 24, 25.. There is one group of two to every 18 needles of the machine. The motions of the front bar may be represented by the figures 4-5, l-il; each pair of numbers referring to the relative positions of the betweenneedle spaces through which the guides are moved in each course, first from rear to front of the needles and then from front to rear in order to produce lapping under the beard of the needle before the knitting of the course takes place. Similarly, the movements of the centre bar are represented by the figures l-l'l, l-2. Thus each of the front two bars continues to perform a two cours cycle throughout the knitting operation. In the meantime the elastic yarns in the back bar perform the following extendedcycle of movements, 0-0, 1-2, 5-6, 7-7, 9-9, 11-11, 13-13, 15-15, 17-17, 19-20; then 20-20, 21-21, repeated nine times; then 21-21, 20-19, 16-16, 14-14, 12-12, 10-10, 8-8, 6-6, 4-4, 2-1; then 0-0, l-l, repeated nine times.

The yarns 22, 23, of the front and centre bars are shown broken away in order to show better the individual course of each yarn and also the course of the elastic yarns, one pair of which is indicated with thick lines at 24, 25. It will be seen that the elastic yarns 24, 25 proceed in zig-zag fashion up the fabric, passing alternately parallel to the length of the fabric and obliquely across the fabric. The elastic yarns are laid in wherever two numbers of the pairs of numbers indicating their motion are the same, being held in'the fabric by thefioat of one or other of the yarns 22, 23, whichever is passing obliquely in a direction different from that in which the elastic yarn has passed. Thus the portion of elastic yarn indicated at 26 will be heldin the fabric by the portion 21 of the yarn 22 and the portion 220i the yarn 23. Where in the pairs of numbers indicating the motion of the elastic yarns the two numbers are diflferent, i. e., at 1-2, 19-20, 20-19, and 2-1, the elastic yarn is looped or knitted. 'I'hesepoints are indicated in Fig. 1 at 29.

Fig. 2 indicates the relationship of the pairs of elastic yarns to one another audit will be only 14 wales apart, the lateral distance over which each extends across the fabric is equal to 20 wales so that the right-hand portion of the pair of elastic yarns indicated by 30. extends further to the right than'the left-hand portion of the pair indicated st, and so on. It will be understood that Fig. 2 (as also Figs. 4, 6, 8

- and 10) is a diagrammatic representation of the fabric in its stretched state and does not show the deformations due to the contraction of the elastic yarns. The oblique traversing of the elastic yarn across the fabric gives the fabric a considerable degree of elasticity across itswidth in addition to the elasticity given by both the vertical and the oblique parts of the elastic yarn along the length of the fabric.

Thejabric shown in Figs. 3 and 4 is knitted on a 3-bar machine of 28 gauge in which the front bar is threaded with 100 denier cellulose acetate yarns, and performs the cycle of operations 2-3, 1-0, 3 times; 4-5, 4-3; then 5-6, 4-3, 3 times; 5-6, 2-1, 2-3, 1-0. The whole of this cycle is repeated while the centre and back bars make one cycle; The-centre and back bars are threaded with elastic yarns similar to of the centre bar make the following movements,

8-8. The wales of the back bar perform the following movements, 9-9, 8-8, 7-7, 6-6, 5-5, 4-4, 4-4, 3-3, 2-2, 2-2, 1-1, 0-0, 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4, 5-5, 6-6, 7-7, 8-8, 9-9, 10-10, 11-11, 12-12, 13-13, 14-14, 15-15, -15-15, 16-16, 17-17, 15-15, 14-14, 13-13, 12-12, 11-11, 10-10.

It will be seen from these details that the two pairs of elastic yarns, indicated in Fig. 3 by the numerals 32, 33, cross one another at the point 34 so as to form a continuous diamond mesh. It will further be noted that each of the inelastic yarns, of which one is indicated by the numeral 35, covers a distance of 6 wales which reduces the tendency of the fabric to longitudinal splitting. Here the elastic yarns are secured in the fabric merely by lapping, which occurs whenever the inelastic yarn 35 is proceeding across the back of the fabric in a direction different from the direction in which the elastic yarn'is proceeding. Thus at the points 36 on the elastic chine are threaded as described with reference,

to Figs. 3 and 4, but perform different movements. The front bar carrying the inelastic 4 times; then 1-1, .5 times; 2-2, 3-3. 4-4.'

yarns performs the following cycle, 2-3, 1-0, 3 times; 4-5; then 4-3, 5-6, 3 times; 4-3,

7-8; then 7-6, 3-9, 4 times; 5-4; then 5-6,

4-3, 3 times; 5-8, 2-1, 2-3, l-0. The centre bar performs the movements 9-9, 10-10, 11-11, 12-12, 13-13, 14-14, 15-15, 17-17, 16-16; then 15-15, 4 times; then 16-16, 4 times; then 15-15, 4 times; then 16-16, 5 times; 15-15,

'z 7, 6-6, 5-5, 4-4,s-a,.2'-2, 1-1, 0-0, 1'-1; then 2-2, 4 times, then 1-1, 4 times; then 2-2,

4-4, 5-5, 6-6, 7-7, 8-8. The back bar'per- .forms the cycle 9-9,'8-8,'7-7, 6-6, 5-5; then 4-4, 4-4, 3-3, 2-2; then 1-1, 4 times; then 2-2, 4 times; then 1-1, 4 times; then 2-2, 5

times; 1-1, 0-0, 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4, 5-5,

- 13-13, 14-14, 15-15; then 16-16, 4 times; then 15-15, 4 times; then 16-16, 4 times; then 15-15, 5 times; 16-16,'17-17, 15-15,14-14, 13-13, 12-12, 11-11, 10-10.

In Fig. 5 one inelastic yarn is indicated by the thin line 44. A pair of yarns in the centre bar is indicated by the thick lines 45 and a pair of yarns in the back bar by the thick lines 46. To avoid longitudinal splitting the number of wales covered by each inelastic yarn is equal to nine. The elastic yarns form a continuous chain of hexagons, the pairs of yarns crossing at the points The disposition of the successive chains of hexagons formed by the elastic yarns 45, 46,

' is shown in Fig. 6.

In Figs. 7 and 8 a fabric is shown of which the pattern is built up by uniting the pattern of the fabric shown in Figs. 3 and 4 with that ofthe fabric shown in Figs. 4 and 5. The. bars are 4-3, 5-6, 3 times; 4- 7-8; then 7-6, 8-9,

4 times; 5-4; then 5-6, 4-3, 3 times; 5-6, 2-1, 2-3, 1-0. The centre bar performs the following motions 9-9, 10-10, 11-11, 12-12, 13-13,

0-0, 1-1; then2-2, 4 times; then 1-1, 4 times ;i then 2-2, 4 times; then 1-1, 5 times; 2-2,

3-3, 4-4, 4-4, 5-5, 6-6, 7-7, 8-8. The back. bar performs the following motions, 9-9,

2 -2, 2-2, 1-1, 0-0, 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4, 5-5, 6-6, 7-7, 8-8, 9-9, 10-10, 11-11, 12-12, 13-13, 14-14, 15-15; then 16-16, 4 times; then 15-15, 4 times; then-16-16, 4 times;

then 15-15, 5 times; 16-16, 17-17, 15-15,

14-14, 13-13, 12-12, 11-11, 10-10. These movements give a pattern of alternate diamonds and hexagons,, the-yarns 48 of the centre bar crossing the yarns 49 of the back bar as shown in Fig. 5 at the points marked 50. The inelastic yarn, of which one is indicated at 5| alternates between the movements of the yarns 35 of FigI"-'-3.,, and the yarns 44 of- Fig. 5. The relative disposition of the successive chains of diamonds and hcxagons is shown in Fig. 8 to be similar to that of the chains of hexagons shown in Fig. 6.

The fabric shown in Figs. 9 and 10 is knitted on a machine having a plain presser and means for putting it into and out of operation. A cut presser machine may be adapted for this purpose by using a cut presser that is completely out away, so that only the controlof the plain presser is effective. As in the front and centre bars of .the example described with reference to Figs. 1

and 2, the front and back bars are threaded with cellulose acetate yarn of 75 denier, one yarn to every needle in each bar, the elastic yarn in this case being fed by the centre bar. The centre bar is threaded with a single elastic yarn, of the same character as that described with reference ,to Figs. 1 and 2' to every twelve needles of the machine. The front bar performs the following cycle, 1-0, 1-2 six times; 1-0, l-1, 1-1; then 1-2, 1-0 six times; 1-1. The back. bar performs the following cycle, 1-2, 1-0, six

times; l2, 1-1, 1-1; then 1-0, 1-2, six

times; 1-0, 1-1, 1-1. It will be seen that the movements of the back bar (indicated in Fig. 9 by the thin line 52) are the same as those of the front bar (indicated at 53) except that when the front bar performs the movements 1-0 the back bar performs the movements 1-2 and vice versa. The centre bar (indicated by the thick line 54) performs the following movements, 14-14, 14-14,

13-13, 13-13, 13-13, 13-13, 14-14, 10-10, -5, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1, 2-2, 2-2, 3-3, 2-2, 3-3, 2-2, 2-2, 2-2, 2-2, 1-1, 5-5 -10. In the course of this cycle the presser bar is put out of action for two courses on two separate occasions, i. e., on the two occasions, indicated at 55, 56, when both the front bar and the back bar areperforming the movements 1-1, 1-1. It; will be seen that during these movements no movement of the front and back bar threads across the needles takes place, the two figures of Having described our invention, what we desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. Method of producing an elastic knitted fabric, said method comprising warp-knitting a plu- I =are guided in at least two sets during knitting,

Kyarns to run in the fabric for substantial disrality of relatively inelastic yarns together with a number of interspersed elastic yarns or groups of yarns that are in an extended condition and securing said elastic yarns in at least some of the courses of the fabric, and causing said elastic tances to and fro across the wales of the fabric as well asacross the courses of the fabric, the yarns of each set being caused to run similarly in the fabric during knitting and the yarns of the different sets differently.

2. Method of producing an elastic knitted fabric, said method comprising warp-knitting a plurality'of relatively inelastic yarns together with a number of interspersed elastic yarns or groups of yarns that are in an extended condition and are guided in at least two sets during knitting, securing said elastic yams in at least some of the courses of the fabric, and causing said elastic yarns to run in the fabric for substantial distances to and fro across the wales of the fabric' as well as across the courses of the fabric, the yarns of each set being caused to run similarly in the fabric during knitting and the yarns of the different sets being caused to run differently and to jcross one another repeatedly during their to and each pair being the same, and consequently no 1'? fabric is knitted. When the front and back bars are performing these movements on the first occasion and the presser is out of action, the centre bar, having at the last course performed the movements 14-14 is performing the movements "fro motions so as to form areas of fabric surrounded by elastic yarns.

3. Method of producing an elastic knitted fabric, said method comprising warp-knitting a plurality of relatively inelastic yarns together with a' number of interspersed elastic yarns or groups of yarns that are in an extended condition and are guided in at least two sets during knitting,

10-10, 5-5 and will proceed in the next course to perform the movements 1-1. As a result, in these four courses, in the second and third of which the presser is out of action, the elastic threads of the centrebar are moved from 14 to 1, a distance of thirteen needles, A similar effect is produced on the second occasion when the presser is put out of action andthe centre bar,

having performed the movements l-l performs the movements 5-5 and 10-10, 14-14 so as to return a distance of thirteen needles. occasion the two courses when the presser bar is put out of action allow time for the relatively stiff and intractable elastic yarn to run through the guides and to be led for the considerable distance requisite across the fabric.

' As is indicated in Fig. 10 each elastic yarn at the extreme right of its movement, as at 51, is further to the right than the adjacent yarn on the right at the extreme left of its movement at 58. In this way there is produced a fabric having a On each securing said elastic yarns in at least some of the courses of the fabric by forming said elastic yarns into knitted loops, and causing said elastic yarns .to run in the fabric for substantialdistances to and fro across the wales of the fabric as well as across the courses of the fabric, the yarns of each set being caused to run similarly in the fabric during knitting and the yarns of the different sets differently.

4. Method of producing an elastic knitted fabric, said method comprising warp-knitting a plurality of relatively inelastic yarns together with a number of interspersed elastic yarns or groups pf yarns that are in an extended condition-and are guided in at least two sets during knitting, securing said elastic yarns in at least some of the courses of the fabric, suspending knitting for short periods after said courses are knitted, causvery high degree of elasticity across its width as well as a substantial degree in the direction of its length.

The fabric produced in accordance with the present invention may be used in any circumstances in which an elastic knitted fabric having a puckered effect is desired. It is particularly useful for the manufacture of bathing costumes. For this purpose, the elasticity of the fabric in both directions enables it to conform readily to the figure of the wearer, so that no elaborate shaping is necessary in cutting out the fabric to make the garment.

ing said elastic yarns to run in the fabric in the course of said periods for substantial distances to and fro across the wales of the fabric and causlng said elastic yams to run across the courses of the fabric between said periods, the yarns of each set being caused to run similarly in the fabric during knitting and the yarns of the different sets differently.

5. Method ofproducing an elastic knitted fabric, said method comprising warp-knitting a plurality of relatively inelastic yarns together with a number .of interspersed elastic yarns or groups of yarns that are in an extended condition and are guided in at least two sets during knitting, causing said inelastic yarns each to cover several wales of the fabric during the knitting of the fabric, securing said elastic yarns in at least some of the courses of the fabric, and causing said interspersed elastic yarns or groups of yarns that are secured in at least some of the courses of the fabric, said elastic yams being in at least two sets, the yarns of each set being caused to run in the fabric in the same manner, and the yarns of the different sets in different manners, for substantial distances to and fro across the wales of the fabric as well as across the courses of the fabric.

7. Ari elastic knitted fabric, comprising a pinrality of relatively inelastic yarns warp-knitted to form a ground fabric together with a number of interspersed elastic yarns or groups of yarns that are secured in at least some of the courses of the fabric, said elastic yams being in at least two sets, the yarns of each set being caused to run in the fabric in the same manner for substantial distances to and fro across the wales of the fabric as well as across the courses of the fabric, the yarns in the different sets being caused to run in cliflerent manners and to cross one another re peatedly so as to form ams of fabric enclosed by elastic yarn.

8. An elastic knitted fabric, comprising a plura lity of relatively inelastic yarns warp-knitted to form a ground fabric together with a number of interspersed elastic yams or groups of yarns that are secured in at least some of the courses of the fabric by being formed into knitted loops in the fabriqsaid elastic yarns being in at least two sets, the yarns of each set being caused to run in the fabric in the same manner, and th yarns of the difierent sets in difierent manners, for substantial distances to and fro across the wales of the fabric as well as across the courses of the fabric.

9. An'elestic knitted fabric, comprising a plurality of relatively inelastic yarns warpknitted to. form a ground fabric, each of said inelastic yarns covering several wales of th fabric, together with a number of interspersed elastic yarns or groups of yarns that are secured in at least some of the courses of the fabric and are caused to run in the fabric for substantial distances to and fro across the Wales of the fabric as well as I across the courses of the fabric, said elastic yarns being in at lwst two sets, the yarns of each set being caused to run in the fabric in the same manner and the yarns of the clifierent sets in dif ierent manners.

HAROLD BESTWICK WALLACE BMW? MA'ITINSON. 

